Irish Museum Object by Eugenia Luna

Irish Museum Object: Che Guevara's Image

As I explore the multiple and informational museums in Ireland, I found it hard to choose one item that I could share and be genuinely interested in. It wasn't until I came across banners promoting  a new display of epic iconic figures in Ireland. One in particular that intrigued me the most was Che Guevara's image.
 The  museum is called The Epic. To give you a quick story of who Guevara: he is as a figure in the US. Guevara has a negative spotlight in America due to his socialist ideology and his support for the Cuban Revolution where he fought alongside Fidel Castro, also, he fought in the Bolivian revolution where he was later killed in. In many ways, he is the kind of figure that you either hate or love for what he stood and fought for. With this being said, my question was "is Che Guevara perhaps appealing enough of an icon to be part of the epic topics of Ireland? If so, why?
I set myself to find out on my last free day in Dublin, Ireland and purchased a ticket to learn more about this controversial man. As I was paying for my ticket, the receptionist asked what brought me there. I told her about my interest in Che Guevara and that I wanted to know how his information was presented to the public. She gave me an amicable smile and encouraged me to share any feedback on what I though about the information display for him. This made me feel much more eager to check out his name in the gallery.
Turns out, his ancestor migrated to South America during the 19th century from Galway!
Guevara would often mention the revolutionary fighters in Ireland and the events that the country was facing. Which was one of his inspiration to continue fighting for those ignored by their government in Latin  America.
The famous back and white picture of him have become ever since a popular symbolism of revolution world wide. 

Though, a similar replica of his hat in an all white color was found in the museum. I found it quite ironic since the color white is often seen as a color of peace. Back at home, Guevara wasn't always interested in fighting peacefully, quite the opposite which led to his persecution. Yet at the same time, he wanted the poor and everyone else to be seen as equal regardless of their social status. Regardless of the fact, his motives are still being questioned by many.
I was still amused that The Epic Musuem  would claim such iconic figure for Ireland. I did not perceive any signs of negativity on him. I have come to the conclusion that perhaps they understand more on what Guevara wanted to do although he failed at accomplishing his goals. Which reminds me of the characters of the Easter Rising 1916: those 16 educated man were also persecuted for starting a revolutions and fighting back. Although they failed, they did not loose hope, still believing that something would turn out from all that work. I think that perhaps Guevara is not as controversial in Ireland and there is an  appreciation of what his image has become world wide by presenting him as part of the epic icon category.The information, mostly facts that I found about him was fairly correct.
Nonetheless, it was quite an epic experience 

Of Statues and Bullet Holes

Even though we've went to just about every museum about the Easter Rising that the city has to offer, it's still hard for me to imagine that a full-scale battle actually took place on the streets of Dublin only 100 years ago (and of course other battles even more recently, with the war of independence and the civil war). When walking around today, there seems to be no visual evidence of this fight. Buildings were leveled with cannon fire from the British, but now people can bustle around without even knowing the devastation that took place. Or maybe, if they're a bit more observant than the average busy city walker, they can't.

The monuments of humanity have no relevance to the life of this seagull

On O'Connell Street, in front of the O'Connell Bridge, stands a an impressive statue of a man named, unsurprisingly, Daniel O'Connell. This guy is so important to Irish history I can't even start to get into it, but I think we all know the gist. The statue has been there since 1882, and it seems like a miracle that it's survived all the craziness that has happened in Dublin since that time. Aside from the pigeon or seagull that always seems to be on his head (the bird not caring less about the 13+ decades of
human history it's doing it's business on), the old Liberator and his angels seems to have escaped unscathed. But look closely, and you can see that that the statue as sustained a few battle scars. Three of the four angels, O'Connell himself, and perhaps most symbolically, the Maid of Erin who represents Ireland, have a respectable amount of bullet holes that are directly from the Rising.

The angel representing Courage has a hole in her chest

The angel representing Eloquence has a hole in her elbow

The Maid of Eire has multiple bullet holes

And O'Connell, perhaps the way he would want it to be, has the most damage

The damage to this statue from the Easter Rising surprisingly wasn't mentioned by any of our various tour guides, I only saw it because Dr. Morgan pointed it out one day as we passed. Ever since then the images of the holes in this piece of history have stayed in my mind as the most powerful reminder of what happened here 100 years ago. We can read books and see museum exhibits and hear stories, but just like in Belfast, the visual reminders of the past set within the peaceful modern day tend to be the most revelatory.

Down the Liffey

I can finally say that for once, procrastination has turned out good for me. I was pretty stuck on what to do for this blog, because although Dublin is an amazing city, I haven't seen anything that really stuck out to me personally. That is, until today!
Today, 6 of us went kayaking down the Liffey, which as you know, is in the heart of Dublin. I knew that it was going to be fun, but I didn't really realize how much of the town I would get to see. First of all, the kayak office is located on North Wall Quay, which is way down the Liffey in a part of Dublin I hadn't been to before. We stopped and turned around at the Guinness Storehouse that we visited. So as you can tell, we got to see the whole city from a unique perspective. I felt as if we were taking a trip through time. Some of the buildings are so new, some are old, some are incredibly detailed, and some are plain jane. It was fun trying to figure out which buildings were here before the Easter Rising and which buildings had been added since then. I noticed a lot of the older, more intricate buildings were being renovated. Our tour guide informed me that this was because they were so old, they had a lot of fixing up to do and they were being modernized on the inside. I thought that that was really interesting and definitely something I hadn't even thought about before going on this kayak trip.
All in all, I loved this trip through time in Dublin. It was not only interesting to see the variety of buildings and their ages, but also all of the people of Dublin staring at you as you float down the river. If you are ever in Ireland again, I recommend kayaking down the Liffey with a couple of mates.

Talk of the Town: Irish Coffee

It’s Paige here. As your self-proclaimed coffee correspondent for Literature in Ireland, I’m here to discuss the Irish coffee situation. That is to say, I’m here to discuss the coffee in Ireland. Irish Coffee is another thing entirely. More information to come.

Simply put, the coffee situation is superb. The cafes are innumerable. One can sit for hours at a dainty outdoor table, enjoying a mocha, or a latte, or an americano, with a scone or biscuit. People-watching and book-reading also pair nicely with a Dublin City Centre coffee. For a coffee snob, Ireland’s coffee has been lovely. An americano is perfect for the drinker of black coffee, but it may also serve as the vehicle for cream and sugar. Bold and rich, Ireland’s coffee usually is made with a machine, unlike the classic American filter coffee and is served with foam that certainly looks delectable, even if it doesn’t add any flavor.

There is something inviting about the air of an Irish café, something greater than the taste of the coffee, something to the effect of “sit down and stay awhile.” Friendly atmospheres and quirky music enhance one’s coffee experience exponentially. And undoubtedly, the traditional after-dinner coffee or tea is quite hospitable. Instead of rushing patrons out the door as they finish their meal, Irish restaurants often expect customers to linger over coffee, dessert, and conversation. The gift of the gab pairs well with a fresh cup of coffee, served in an elegant mug atop a delicate saucer.

Even more hospitable than a sunny day at the café or after-dinner coffee, is the history of the world-renowned Irish Coffee. Interestingly, the tradition began relatively recently, but has now reached an almost mythic level.

According to The Irish Whiskey Trail’s website, the classic Irish Coffee was invented in 1942 in Foynes, a town and airbase near Limerick. The airport had many disgruntled passengers, some of whom were American politicians and celebrities, whose flight connection had turned into an overnight stay. Chef Joe Sheridan wanted to present the tired and careworn passengers with a refreshing and comforting drink. He mixed strong coffee, sugar, and Irish whiskey, and topped the drink with fresh cream. And as they say, the rest is history.

Although your correspondent has not experienced a true Irish Coffee, I am convinced it must be as warm and friendly as the Irish people themselves. Should you begin to miss the Emerald Isle and wish to create this beverage at home, I am including the traditional recipe below.

This is Paige, signing out. May your travels be safe and your coffee be strong!

1.5 parts Fresh Cream—Rich as an Irish Brogue

4 parts Hot Coffee—Strong as a Friendly Hand

1 tsp Brown Sugar—Sweet as the tongue of a Rogue

2 parts Irish Whiskey—Smooth as the Wit of the Land

Talk of the Town: A preview of what was long overdue

The Richmond Barracks are quite far from the General Post Office in downtown Dublin, both in distance and in terms of what they represent.

The post office, of course, was the epicenter of the 1916 Easter Rising. First, it served as the headquarters for the poets, teachers and labor advocates who led the rebellion against the British, and five days later, it became the focus of the Brits’ bombs that would break the back, but not the spirit, of the insurgence.

The yard at the jail where the Brits executed the rebels.

Now the GPO, as it’s called, is the slick interactive tourism HQ for all things Rising-related. Its touch screens synthesize documents and characters. Its movie simplifies the action and rebels’ decisions being made inside the building’s proud granite shell. It’s a museum dedicated to the Rising’s leading men.

The Richmond Barracks, on the other hand, sit a half-hour bus ride away amid the Inchicore neighborhood – one hill over from the Kilmainham Gaol (jail), where the British executed the

Rising’s leaders. The barracks became a holding cell and courtroom.

It’s a stark place even now. All stone and bare floors. But its expansive space focuses attention on the minimalist, yet powerful, exhibit of the rebels Ireland almost forgot about: the women.

Eadaoin Ni Chleirigh, the energetic and enthusiastic executive chair of the 2016 Richmond Barracks exhibition, on June 21 welcomed several wayward Americans who had wandered up to the barracks unaware that the exhibit wouldn’t open for another six days.

“You’re from Kentucky? Well if you’re from Kentucky, you must come in,” she said. Her tone overflowed with Irish hospitality and she insisted on giving them a tour.

Eadoaoin Ni Chleirigh points to the Countess Markievicz panel on the quilt at the Richmond Barracks exhibit.

The main chamber of the barracks, where the 22 rebel leaders were taken after their capture Saturday, April 29, now features displays detailing the contributions of many of the women who helped carry out the rebellion, such as Rose McNamara (who became vice-commandant at the rebels’ outpost at the Marrowbone Lane Distillery), Winifred Carney (top aide to Joseph Connelly) and of course Countess Markievicz, who was a catalyst for the Rising and is the most well-known of the women involved.

A French paper snapped Markievicz being taken by ambulance to the jail.

In all, 77 women are honored on squares of a quilt that hangs in the back of the barrack’s main room.

“Some of these women only had a sentence or two written about them before this,” Chleirigh said.

That made researching them difficult. Chleirigh initially drew Bridget Hegarty to investigate. That meant tracking down family members. It turned out they knew little about her role in the Rising but became so intrigued that Hegarty’s grandniece then took over the research and design of Hegarty’s quilt square.

“When the family discovered what she’d done,” Chleirigh said, “they were so proud of her.”

This exhibit becomes more important because it brings to the surface what 20^th Century Ireland seemed hell-bent on burying. Shortly after the Rising, the women began getting shoved aside. Even the male poets who sought to underscore the Rising’s importance breezed past the women’s contribution. In one of the most well known pieces, W.B. Yeats’ “Easter 1916,” Yeats alludes to Markievicz but does so in a way that seems to diminish her – as if her participation in the rebellion somehow sapped her beauty.

“That woman’s days were spent

In ignorant good-will,

Her nights in argument

Until her voice grew shrill.

What voice more sweet than hers

When, young and beautiful,

She rode to harriers?” 

In this case, the words of Markievicz might deserve to outlive those of the famous poet. As Markievicz gave her official statement to the British judge, she said, “We dreamed of an Irish Republic and thought we had a fighting chance.”

Then she broke down and sobbed, the judge recalled. It was as if she were crying on behalf of her nation. 

On a sunny Saturday in Dublin, Stephens Green is the place to go for some fascinating people watching. Rarely can a more diverse group of people be observed in all directions from one place. Looking to one side, you can see a cluster of boys kicking around a ball or practicing some impressive flips. By shifting your gaze just slightly you come across a family peacefully eating a picnic, a couple holding hands, or a parent frantically trying to keep their little angels from climbing into a fountain. Interspersed among these lively scenes are the sunbathers and the tourists with wide eyes, trying to take in everything at once.

In addition to the people watching, there are many scenic aspects to take in as well. There are beautiful plants and contrasting scenery of sunny green fields and shady wooded paths. There are duck ponds and fountains, as well as birds, squirrels and various types of bugs.

At first, the people and nature are somewhat overwhelming and it can be hard to know where to look. But by taking the time to look beneath the surface level, it is easy to see the deeper historical significance of Stephens Green. There are plaques scattered throughout the huge park, detailing the events of the battle which took place there. These plaques provide an interesting background for all the commotion on the grass, and no matter where you are, there are reminders all around.

You can see the duck pond that halted battle once a day so the ducks could be fed, and in every direction there are statues memorializing important figures in the battle. This makes it difficult to enjoy a pleasant day in the Green without remembering the historical background. 

Talk of the Drinkers

There seems to be an interesting character worth meeting in almost every pub I’ve been to in Dublin. The Irish people are incredibly friendly and interesting to talk to. Most people in the pubs are very approachable, and often times they are the ones who approach you. One of the most interesting conversations I’ve had at a pub was when Ryan and I were at O’Neil’s talking to a woman named Sally Anne (Sal).

Sal was so happy that we were interested in Irish history as much as we are. Here we were at around 7:00 p.m. having a casual conversation with the bartender (the same man who recommended the hike at Howth), and Sal sits down next to us and joins the conversation. At first, she seemed to think that we were just here for the beautiful nature, but when we told her that we had two lessons on the Irish language, she was thrilled. Sal was an absolute admirer of the Irish language.  We talked to her about how wonderful the language sounds and how difficult it is to learn. Sal told us that when taking the Irish portion of the exams, students really only needed to know how to say a few stock sentences because the school system did not want to take the time to teach such a complex language. She firmly believed that it is a shame that the Irish language is dying out and that the language is part of what makes Irish culture so great.

Sal also told us about an ancient structure that is older than both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza: Newgrange. While she did not expect either of us to know about Newgrange, Sal noted how disappointed she was that most people had never heard of the ancient Irish site. It is located in Boyne Valley – in the East of Ireland, and it was built around 3200 B.C.E. Sal explained to us that on the winter solstice, the sunlight comes into the structure at a perfect angle and lights the whole thing up. She also mentioned that the waiting list to enter Newgrange during this event is around 40 years: it must be a truly remarkable experience. While I did not actually get to see Newgrange, it will be one of the things that I tell people about first when I get back to the United States.

Aerial view of Newgrange

Sal is only one of the many great people that I have met and conversed with in Irish pubs throughout Dublin. Whenever you want to have a good conversation with friendly people, you can always look to the men and women drinking at the bar of a traditional Irish pub. My favorite part of this trip has been going out and learning and making connections with the local Dubliners over a good pint of Guinness.