Of Statues and Bullet Holes

Even though we've went to just about every museum about the Easter Rising that the city has to offer, it's still hard for me to imagine that a full-scale battle actually took place on the streets of Dublin only 100 years ago (and of course other battles even more recently, with the war of independence and the civil war). When walking around today, there seems to be no visual evidence of this fight. Buildings were leveled with cannon fire from the British, but now people can bustle around without even knowing the devastation that took place. Or maybe, if they're a bit more observant than the average busy city walker, they can't.

The monuments of humanity have no relevance to the life of this seagull

On O'Connell Street, in front of the O'Connell Bridge, stands a an impressive statue of a man named, unsurprisingly, Daniel O'Connell. This guy is so important to Irish history I can't even start to get into it, but I think we all know the gist. The statue has been there since 1882, and it seems like a miracle that it's survived all the craziness that has happened in Dublin since that time. Aside from the pigeon or seagull that always seems to be on his head (the bird not caring less about the 13+ decades of
human history it's doing it's business on), the old Liberator and his angels seems to have escaped unscathed. But look closely, and you can see that that the statue as sustained a few battle scars. Three of the four angels, O'Connell himself, and perhaps most symbolically, the Maid of Erin who represents Ireland, have a respectable amount of bullet holes that are directly from the Rising.

The angel representing Courage has a hole in her chest

The angel representing Eloquence has a hole in her elbow

The Maid of Eire has multiple bullet holes

And O'Connell, perhaps the way he would want it to be, has the most damage

The damage to this statue from the Easter Rising surprisingly wasn't mentioned by any of our various tour guides, I only saw it because Dr. Morgan pointed it out one day as we passed. Ever since then the images of the holes in this piece of history have stayed in my mind as the most powerful reminder of what happened here 100 years ago. We can read books and see museum exhibits and hear stories, but just like in Belfast, the visual reminders of the past set within the peaceful modern day tend to be the most revelatory.

Down the Liffey

I can finally say that for once, procrastination has turned out good for me. I was pretty stuck on what to do for this blog, because although Dublin is an amazing city, I haven't seen anything that really stuck out to me personally. That is, until today!
Today, 6 of us went kayaking down the Liffey, which as you know, is in the heart of Dublin. I knew that it was going to be fun, but I didn't really realize how much of the town I would get to see. First of all, the kayak office is located on North Wall Quay, which is way down the Liffey in a part of Dublin I hadn't been to before. We stopped and turned around at the Guinness Storehouse that we visited. So as you can tell, we got to see the whole city from a unique perspective. I felt as if we were taking a trip through time. Some of the buildings are so new, some are old, some are incredibly detailed, and some are plain jane. It was fun trying to figure out which buildings were here before the Easter Rising and which buildings had been added since then. I noticed a lot of the older, more intricate buildings were being renovated. Our tour guide informed me that this was because they were so old, they had a lot of fixing up to do and they were being modernized on the inside. I thought that that was really interesting and definitely something I hadn't even thought about before going on this kayak trip.
All in all, I loved this trip through time in Dublin. It was not only interesting to see the variety of buildings and their ages, but also all of the people of Dublin staring at you as you float down the river. If you are ever in Ireland again, I recommend kayaking down the Liffey with a couple of mates.

Talk of the Town: Irish Coffee

It’s Paige here. As your self-proclaimed coffee correspondent for Literature in Ireland, I’m here to discuss the Irish coffee situation. That is to say, I’m here to discuss the coffee in Ireland. Irish Coffee is another thing entirely. More information to come.

Simply put, the coffee situation is superb. The cafes are innumerable. One can sit for hours at a dainty outdoor table, enjoying a mocha, or a latte, or an americano, with a scone or biscuit. People-watching and book-reading also pair nicely with a Dublin City Centre coffee. For a coffee snob, Ireland’s coffee has been lovely. An americano is perfect for the drinker of black coffee, but it may also serve as the vehicle for cream and sugar. Bold and rich, Ireland’s coffee usually is made with a machine, unlike the classic American filter coffee and is served with foam that certainly looks delectable, even if it doesn’t add any flavor.

There is something inviting about the air of an Irish café, something greater than the taste of the coffee, something to the effect of “sit down and stay awhile.” Friendly atmospheres and quirky music enhance one’s coffee experience exponentially. And undoubtedly, the traditional after-dinner coffee or tea is quite hospitable. Instead of rushing patrons out the door as they finish their meal, Irish restaurants often expect customers to linger over coffee, dessert, and conversation. The gift of the gab pairs well with a fresh cup of coffee, served in an elegant mug atop a delicate saucer.

Even more hospitable than a sunny day at the café or after-dinner coffee, is the history of the world-renowned Irish Coffee. Interestingly, the tradition began relatively recently, but has now reached an almost mythic level.

According to The Irish Whiskey Trail’s website, the classic Irish Coffee was invented in 1942 in Foynes, a town and airbase near Limerick. The airport had many disgruntled passengers, some of whom were American politicians and celebrities, whose flight connection had turned into an overnight stay. Chef Joe Sheridan wanted to present the tired and careworn passengers with a refreshing and comforting drink. He mixed strong coffee, sugar, and Irish whiskey, and topped the drink with fresh cream. And as they say, the rest is history.

Although your correspondent has not experienced a true Irish Coffee, I am convinced it must be as warm and friendly as the Irish people themselves. Should you begin to miss the Emerald Isle and wish to create this beverage at home, I am including the traditional recipe below.

This is Paige, signing out. May your travels be safe and your coffee be strong!

1.5 parts Fresh Cream—Rich as an Irish Brogue

4 parts Hot Coffee—Strong as a Friendly Hand

1 tsp Brown Sugar—Sweet as the tongue of a Rogue

2 parts Irish Whiskey—Smooth as the Wit of the Land

Talk of the Town: A preview of what was long overdue

The Richmond Barracks are quite far from the General Post Office in downtown Dublin, both in distance and in terms of what they represent.

The post office, of course, was the epicenter of the 1916 Easter Rising. First, it served as the headquarters for the poets, teachers and labor advocates who led the rebellion against the British, and five days later, it became the focus of the Brits’ bombs that would break the back, but not the spirit, of the insurgence.

The yard at the jail where the Brits executed the rebels.

Now the GPO, as it’s called, is the slick interactive tourism HQ for all things Rising-related. Its touch screens synthesize documents and characters. Its movie simplifies the action and rebels’ decisions being made inside the building’s proud granite shell. It’s a museum dedicated to the Rising’s leading men.

The Richmond Barracks, on the other hand, sit a half-hour bus ride away amid the Inchicore neighborhood – one hill over from the Kilmainham Gaol (jail), where the British executed the

Rising’s leaders. The barracks became a holding cell and courtroom.

It’s a stark place even now. All stone and bare floors. But its expansive space focuses attention on the minimalist, yet powerful, exhibit of the rebels Ireland almost forgot about: the women.

Eadaoin Ni Chleirigh, the energetic and enthusiastic executive chair of the 2016 Richmond Barracks exhibition, on June 21 welcomed several wayward Americans who had wandered up to the barracks unaware that the exhibit wouldn’t open for another six days.

“You’re from Kentucky? Well if you’re from Kentucky, you must come in,” she said. Her tone overflowed with Irish hospitality and she insisted on giving them a tour.

Eadoaoin Ni Chleirigh points to the Countess Markievicz panel on the quilt at the Richmond Barracks exhibit.

The main chamber of the barracks, where the 22 rebel leaders were taken after their capture Saturday, April 29, now features displays detailing the contributions of many of the women who helped carry out the rebellion, such as Rose McNamara (who became vice-commandant at the rebels’ outpost at the Marrowbone Lane Distillery), Winifred Carney (top aide to Joseph Connelly) and of course Countess Markievicz, who was a catalyst for the Rising and is the most well-known of the women involved.

A French paper snapped Markievicz being taken by ambulance to the jail.

In all, 77 women are honored on squares of a quilt that hangs in the back of the barrack’s main room.

“Some of these women only had a sentence or two written about them before this,” Chleirigh said.

That made researching them difficult. Chleirigh initially drew Bridget Hegarty to investigate. That meant tracking down family members. It turned out they knew little about her role in the Rising but became so intrigued that Hegarty’s grandniece then took over the research and design of Hegarty’s quilt square.

“When the family discovered what she’d done,” Chleirigh said, “they were so proud of her.”

This exhibit becomes more important because it brings to the surface what 20^th Century Ireland seemed hell-bent on burying. Shortly after the Rising, the women began getting shoved aside. Even the male poets who sought to underscore the Rising’s importance breezed past the women’s contribution. In one of the most well known pieces, W.B. Yeats’ “Easter 1916,” Yeats alludes to Markievicz but does so in a way that seems to diminish her – as if her participation in the rebellion somehow sapped her beauty.

“That woman’s days were spent

In ignorant good-will,

Her nights in argument

Until her voice grew shrill.

What voice more sweet than hers

When, young and beautiful,

She rode to harriers?” 

In this case, the words of Markievicz might deserve to outlive those of the famous poet. As Markievicz gave her official statement to the British judge, she said, “We dreamed of an Irish Republic and thought we had a fighting chance.”

Then she broke down and sobbed, the judge recalled. It was as if she were crying on behalf of her nation. 

On a sunny Saturday in Dublin, Stephens Green is the place to go for some fascinating people watching. Rarely can a more diverse group of people be observed in all directions from one place. Looking to one side, you can see a cluster of boys kicking around a ball or practicing some impressive flips. By shifting your gaze just slightly you come across a family peacefully eating a picnic, a couple holding hands, or a parent frantically trying to keep their little angels from climbing into a fountain. Interspersed among these lively scenes are the sunbathers and the tourists with wide eyes, trying to take in everything at once.

In addition to the people watching, there are many scenic aspects to take in as well. There are beautiful plants and contrasting scenery of sunny green fields and shady wooded paths. There are duck ponds and fountains, as well as birds, squirrels and various types of bugs.

At first, the people and nature are somewhat overwhelming and it can be hard to know where to look. But by taking the time to look beneath the surface level, it is easy to see the deeper historical significance of Stephens Green. There are plaques scattered throughout the huge park, detailing the events of the battle which took place there. These plaques provide an interesting background for all the commotion on the grass, and no matter where you are, there are reminders all around.

You can see the duck pond that halted battle once a day so the ducks could be fed, and in every direction there are statues memorializing important figures in the battle. This makes it difficult to enjoy a pleasant day in the Green without remembering the historical background. 

Talk of the Drinkers

There seems to be an interesting character worth meeting in almost every pub I’ve been to in Dublin. The Irish people are incredibly friendly and interesting to talk to. Most people in the pubs are very approachable, and often times they are the ones who approach you. One of the most interesting conversations I’ve had at a pub was when Ryan and I were at O’Neil’s talking to a woman named Sally Anne (Sal).

Sal was so happy that we were interested in Irish history as much as we are. Here we were at around 7:00 p.m. having a casual conversation with the bartender (the same man who recommended the hike at Howth), and Sal sits down next to us and joins the conversation. At first, she seemed to think that we were just here for the beautiful nature, but when we told her that we had two lessons on the Irish language, she was thrilled. Sal was an absolute admirer of the Irish language.  We talked to her about how wonderful the language sounds and how difficult it is to learn. Sal told us that when taking the Irish portion of the exams, students really only needed to know how to say a few stock sentences because the school system did not want to take the time to teach such a complex language. She firmly believed that it is a shame that the Irish language is dying out and that the language is part of what makes Irish culture so great.

Sal also told us about an ancient structure that is older than both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza: Newgrange. While she did not expect either of us to know about Newgrange, Sal noted how disappointed she was that most people had never heard of the ancient Irish site. It is located in Boyne Valley – in the East of Ireland, and it was built around 3200 B.C.E. Sal explained to us that on the winter solstice, the sunlight comes into the structure at a perfect angle and lights the whole thing up. She also mentioned that the waiting list to enter Newgrange during this event is around 40 years: it must be a truly remarkable experience. While I did not actually get to see Newgrange, it will be one of the things that I tell people about first when I get back to the United States.

Aerial view of Newgrange

Sal is only one of the many great people that I have met and conversed with in Irish pubs throughout Dublin. Whenever you want to have a good conversation with friendly people, you can always look to the men and women drinking at the bar of a traditional Irish pub. My favorite part of this trip has been going out and learning and making connections with the local Dubliners over a good pint of Guinness.

Talk of preserving the Irish language

            During my stay in Dublin, as I wandered around UCD’s campus and the many tourist sites downtown, I always found myself paying close attention to the Irish translations of street signs, as if I could understand what they say without translation or possibly pronounce them. As with any country that has been colonized, whether it be African countries colonized by the British or Ireland, one thing is common among these countries even till this day.

            The commonality is the fact that these countries’ languages have become second class. One of the things that I admired about our Irish language teacher was the fact that she could not only speak such a hard language fluently, but more importantly I admired her passion for the language and preserving it in her everyday life. As someone who cannot speak their native tongue, I applaud those that not only can but are so in love with their language that they choose to make it a part of their life and the life of their children.

When we were driving through Galway, Paul, our tour guide, talked about how he grew up and was apathetic to the Irish language. It was not until he was older that he also learned to appreciate the language. However, despite the fact that Irish is required in the school system, few people actually graduate knowing how to speak Irish fluently. Also, many people feel like the government is not doing enough to preserve the language and governmental services do not comply with the law that recorded announcements on telephones should make sense in Irish.

            The street signs that have Irish translations are the beginning of fixing a larger problem. I believe that a country’s language is the most important aspect of their culture. Language is particular to a country’s borders and it can teach the history of a place, like the religiosity in the Irish language. I just hope that if I were to visit again, Irish would be more prevalent, instead of just on street signs.

Talk of the Marketplace: Grafton Street

The marketplace. While it is often known as a chief shopping center for locals and tourists alike, an outsider can also glean into what makes the city's inhabitants tick. What exactly is there to buy? How do the people determine which products are more important than others? And how do they amuse themselves as they attempt to decide on which store or bazaar to go to next? Many cities' marketplaces answer these questions, and Dublin is no exception. One can know how people behave in this center just by assessing the mass of people conglomerating and moving through Grafton Street--Dublin's marketplace.

One must wonder what every individual in this sea of people must be thinking as they hustle and bustle through the street, wondering where certain stores are at. It is so easy for us as humans to think of these people as part of the ocean we have to navigate in order to get to our desired destination. But if we can think of every person in that ocean as individual people with drastically different stories and with real wants, needs, and desires, we can come to appreciate such seas of people as part of our new experiences--even if they may have strange reasons to support Donald Trump (of course, to each his own). Some of these people may be wondering what the latest fashion trend is and how they can afford to buy it (not that most people, myself included, would care). Guys may be asking themselves which gifts would be good to give to their special woman--a tradition that can yield great pleasure or immense heartbreak. As for others and myself, they may just be thinking where is a good place to eat. In essence, such thoughts contribute to the artfulness we can appreciate in the ocean of people when we encounter it.

When one is wanting to rest from trying to figure out what to buy, street performers are there to entertain them. As one would expect, there are a plethora of street performers that perform different talents. One such performer rode on a tall unicycle while perilously juggling knives to the delight of the crowd. Other street performers are more benign, with most just showcasing their skill with a musical instrument like a guitar or a saxophone (as pictured above). Other performers may show their dance moves to a certain tune. Other people may also talk to total strangers about certain beliefs. As an example, a Christian evangelist may pass out tracts showing them the Gospel of Jesus Christ and asking them to make a decision for Him. People usually rebuff them, but some are willing to hear them out as they explain the Gospel to them--which are usually interesting conversations to listen to. All in all, Dublin's Grafton Street is a place where one can learn much about the city--and possibly all of Ireland. It is a beautiful place, and a person visiting there will not be disappointed with what this has to offer.

Talk of all that Irish Nature

     While a city has architectural grandeur and industrial wonders, there is something to be said for the simplistic beauty of nature. I had heard that Ireland had some breath-taking sights, but I never ever thought I would see such a variety when it came to the plants and animals that called Ireland home. Ask anyone of my hiking partners and they will tell you that every new sight fascinated me (and caused a few choice words to escape from my mouth). However, the real fascination lay in the different species I found whilst exploring this island, both in the city and in the country.

     The city has several creatures running around that are both familiar and new. Mangled, slightly deformed pigeons were the norm and could always be spotted scavenging for that last bit of crumb from a recently eaten pastry. Swans and ducks gathered in the ponds of the parks and happily devoured whatever morsels of bread were thrown their way. Magpies and Rooks made several guest appearances in kitchens and bus terminals. It was amazing to me how adaptable these birds were to their environment around humans. Most of them were all too happy to eat from the palm of your hand. They breezily navigated the streets of Dublin better than any of us certainly did. The people of Dublin and especially Howth were also adapted to life with the birds as they shared their crumbs and easily dodged the birds in flight. It was cohabitation at its finest!

    Aside from the animals, Ireland was home to quite the assortment of plant life. I have never seen so much green in one place! The gardens of Coole may be intentionally diverse in plant life,  but Ireland as a whole is too. While on various excursions in the countryside and hiking along the cliffs, I came across so many types of wildflowers and grasses. They hugged the edges of rivers and streams which gave off the appearance of an Austen novel. Paige and I both felt like a Bennett sister as we walked along the little river at Coole. Up along the coastline, the hiking trail was wedged between various plants. Most were wildflowers, ferns, and grasses...but some were very unusual such as what we called the "lugie plants" which were tall grasses with what looked like mucus on the blades. Then, to my utter delight, I came across wild honeysuckle! Now, I'd make my ancestors roll in their graves if I didn't give Irish honkeysuckle a try. The taste was that familiar sweetness which put a little bit of home into Ireland for me. 

   Population wise, Ireland's cities are remarkably diverse in population. This is true for the nature of Ireland as well. With so much limestone in the ground, plants from all over the world can thrive in the Irish climate---from palm trees to honeysuckle. As a result of that diversity, all sorts of animals (especially the little birds) can thrive here as well. What does that prove for Ireland? It proves that this place has the perfect climate for diversity and I think, in time, that diversity will reach all over Ireland (and I'm not just talking about nature). It's an inspiring sight to see that really touched me and gave me hope for places like Belfast. Nature proves that there is certainly hope for cohabitation between diverse groups. 

Talk of the Museum

Talk of the Museum

    In touring many of the museums and monuments of Dublin, we see a common theme among them: The Easter Rising of 1916. We have spent the majority of our trip in Ireland, namely Dublin and Galway, and therefore have been learning about the Easter Rising from the side of the people who began it. The Easter Rising for Ireland was the start of a mind set to change the way that the people were being governed; it was also a start of a change in the way that people thought of women. This was the first time that women had stood up and decided that they were going to fight on the same level as a man, that they would be equals. I think that this stand made by the women allowed the men to see their position in society differently; I think it allowed the men to trust women more and to see them as on a more equal plane. When the women were jailed with the men after the Rising, it was clear that they were going to take just as much blame as the men. One woman, Countess Markievicz was set to be executed but it was later revoked because of the fact that she was a woman. This was the only place where the equality ended for the women, in the jails they could not be executed like the men. Instead, they were often released after not much more than a few months, or transferred to other prisons. Throughout our time in Dublin and Galway, we saw a strong and proud side of the Rising. A time when good things were able to begin happening for Ireland, they would eventually be able to gain their independence because of the fact that the Rising put in place a chain of events that was able to lead to the end goal. When we visited Belfast this story changed a little bit. In the Ulster Museum in Belfast we got to tour a 1916 exhibit but the feel in this one was different; we were quick to realize that it was because we were seeing it from the other side. We watched a video in the museum and we a bit shocked to hear the speaker say, “The Rising was a failure due to the lack of military strategy of the leaders.” She was also quick to point out how many people lost their lives, painting it was a ruthless and pointless uprising. She did not even say about how women were able to find equality, how much the other side did to make their point. She was harsh about the Irish side; I was taken aback. They thought it was a failure, but I don’t think it was. After going to both sides of the conflict and hearing about what both sides thought about it, I am on the Irish side of things. It was not a failure in that women were able to change the way that men thought about them, without the women of the Rising I don’t think that it would have lasted as long as it did and made as much of an impact on Irish culture as it did. I also think that it was able to spark the following conflicts that would lead to the independence of Ireland for good, it was truly a turning point in Irish history. 

Harley Engle

Talk of the Gardens

       While walking through the National Botanic Gardens in Dublin, I came across a beautiful flower called Irish Elegance. It is classified as a rose with salmon colored petals that fade into yellow at the center. I ended up buying a painting of this rose and on the back they had the history of Irish Elegance. It described how in 1905, a family by the name of Dickson in search of the perfect tea rose created the flower. I found this to be very interesting. I had never heard of selectively breeding in plants before. I was super intrigued and wanted to find out more.

       Selective breeding in plants is often referred to as hybridizing. It is very similar to selective breeding in animals. The makers of Irish Elegance wanted a beautiful flower that smelled nice and could be made into a delicious tea. It all starts by finding plants that have the “desired” characteristics. Then, they would have collected the pollen and cross-pollinated many times. Each cross-pollination would have been slightly different. It probably took many trial and error cups of tea before the family was satisfied with their creation! Once one of the desired traits is achieved, a rose breeder can build on that by cross-pollinating with more plants. Eventually, the perfect flower is created. It does not stop there though. Then, the Dickson’s would have had to breed their perfect roses together multiple times to ensure that they offspring were all pretty much identical. After all of this, the Irish Elegance officially became a new species of rose!

Bringing The City To Life

Blog Assignment #3

The Talk of the Town: Dublin

Anna Collins

            Take a stroll through downtown Dublin, right through city center. As you walk you may notice the typical hustle and bustle of shop workers, tourist and evening strollers.  Busses screech in, and taxis race to varying destinations. These are all passer byes, en route to accomplish various tasks for the day.

            As you make your way along the winding streets there are a few that standout for not flowing with the currents of the crowd. They are even able to convince those around them to take a second and pause. People are drawn in for various reasons. The first ones may hear a note or two that their ear is fond of, or perhaps they recognize the lyrics from a song. Once a handful of individuals gather, the simple curiosity of the human mind starts to take effect. The interesting thing is that nothing may even be happening yet, but the simple excitement of what’s to come is enough to hold the crowd in place.

These are the street performers of Dublin. Singing, dancing, becoming temporary statues…all have been acts I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in my journey through the streets. Each of the performers seems to add a piece of themselves to Dublin. They bring the city to life so to speak. It’s a piece of the city that completely fascinates me. One evening in particular, as a group of us were making our way to the bus stop savoring our recent purchase of Gino’s Gelato, there was an especially talented group of teenagers singing and playing some music. By the time we walked up, a crowd had already surrounded them. One man was skipping and dancing around with such a free and light way about him. The group consisted of two guys-one on a beat box, the other singing and on the guitar, along with a female vocalist. The passion for music and joy of performing was written all over their faces. It made the crowd around them electric. Before you knew it the entire lot of us were joining in some way-be it swaying, clapping or humming along. Somehow, these three teenagers and their music had brought together at least fifty strangers for a few songs.

Then there were the dancers. It was about midday when we stumbled upon this group. It was their high energy level that demanded the attention of anyone in the general vicinity. Don’t get me wrong the dancing was good enough, but the twist they brought with them was the factor that held the audience around. Mocking the iconic titanic image and engaging those along the front row gave the street a giddy, daring feel.

It is very rare I suppose that we witness people with such a zest for life and passion for what they’re doing in this era. We get occupied with technology, meetings, and other serious matters. The performers I’ve witnessed here are a bold reminder that having a passion for whatever you’re doing is such a vital part to genuine happiness. Further more, sharing this elation with others provides everyone with the chance to make a positive impact on the world around them.

                                   Dancers providing a dramatic reenactment 

Talk of the Town: Q-Con in Belfast

OUR VISIT TO BELFAST COINCIDED WITH Q-CON XXIII AT QUEEN'S UNIVERSITY, billed as the largest convention of gaming and anime in the UK or Ireland. Young people wearing lanyards with large registration placards were coming and going from the student center. Some were dressed casually, but many were in costume.

Who is this woman in a blue gown  walking
with Rey and the Question?

I recognized a few of the characters. Princess Peach in a pink hoop skirt, a tiny gold crown on her yellow wig is in a hurry to get to the bus stop. Rey from the new Star Wars in her sand-colored tunic and ivory sleeves carried BB-8 on her hip like a toddler. The Question, a faceless man in his blue fedora and trench coat looks right, and then left (yes, even without eyes) before crossing the street. 

A couple of young women in elaborate costumes stood at the top o the stairs, and I asked them about their experience at Q-Com. Both were characters from Alice in Wonderland and Through the Looking Glass. Shelly Turtle was the Queen of Hearts and Liffie Lynas was the Mad Hatter. This was their third year to visit, and they talked about the fun of cosplay, the dressing up as characters from books, games, or films.

Shelly Turtle and Liffie Lynas like cosplay the best.

They made their elaborate costumes themselves. The Red Queen wore a black velveteen dress with a red bodice and gold borders. Her skirt was made with tulle, and the playing cards caught up randomly in the netting were reminiscent of the scene in Alice in Wonderland (or was it Through the Looking Glass?) where the playing cards go flying. The Mad Hatter's fabulous hat was over a foot tall with a peacock feather and a card reading "10/6" (for ten shillings, sixpence) stuck in the broad purple band. Her short jacket had green lapels and ruffled cuffs. Over her shoulder was a many colored sash made of spools of thread. It looked a little like a jeweled ammunition belt. 
Shelly told me she feels at home amongst the cosplayers. "They feel normal to us. Normal people feel weird; weird people feel normal." These women clearly have a great time with the collective creativity of the Q-Con community. As we were talking, lots of others, most, but not all, in character, came up to praise the costumes. This community welcomes engagement. It strikes me that people have immense commitment to this festival. I used to do a fair amount of seamstress work, and I can tell you that those spools of thread are expensive, and the handiwork was not simple stuff. Mutton chop sleeves, a bodice with princess seems: these are not for beginners.
Q-Con is reasonably priced. £22.00 cash will get you in for a whole weekend of games, lectures, entertainment, and fellowship. But I think even more, Q-Con is a convergence of imagination and camaraderie in service to a wholehearted communion and creativity.

Imagining History Complexly: The Cell Wall Painting of Grace Plunkett

Every museum or exhibit I go to about the Easter Rising and Irish history furthers my realization of how real all of this was, how all of these men and women were actually individual people and the extent to which they suffered and died for their cause. No place has done that more than my trip to Kilmainham Gaol today. It's one thing to read about these people were jailed and executed, but it's something very different to stand in the place where it actually happened. 

I ended up developing a closer connection to my assigned Easter Rising figure, Grace Gifford Plunkett, than I thought I would. Though the most famous part of her story is the circumstances of her marriage, that was only one part of her life as a revolutionary. What resonated with me was her passion for art, and her motivation to use her art to promote the ideas she was passionate about. In 1923 Grace was imprisoned for three months in Kilmainham Jail, the same place where she was married and where her husband was killed. While she was there, she managed to gain access to paint and crayons, and created art on the walls of her cell. The one that survived enough to be restored was her painting of Madonna and Child, seen here in the picture I took today.

The more I look at it the more I wonder what was going through her mind when she painted it. One of the things I learned today is that prisoners in Kilmainham Gaol were very rarely allowed to talk, so she definitely would have had time to think. Was she just trying to keep art in her life during her imprisonment, was she tired of looking at the white walls? Does she want us to read metaphors into it, to say that she was wistful about the children she would never get to have with Joseph, that she was relating to a story of watching someone you love sacrifice themselves? I'm no art critic or historian, so I don't have any refined or revolutionary interpretations, but I try my best to think as complexly as I can about the things that warrant it.

A photo of the original painting before restoration

Grace Plunkett's cell

The chapel where Grace and Joseph were married

The Weapon for the Rebel who didn't Fight: Tom Clarke's Rifle

As we know, Tom Clarke was more of a planner than a fighter when it came to The Easter Rising. In my search through museums, I couldn’t help but notice that there are not very many displays and artifacts from or about Clarke. I was under the assumption that because Clarke was not one of the major fighters, he has been overlooked by many. I wholeheartedly believe that Clarke was one of the most influential and respected rebels among the group of participants in the Rising, so I wanted to find an object that involved Clarke.

Because Tom Clarke was a leader of a group of men that had very little military training themselves and he did not even hold a military position in the group, I was shocked to find an object that deals with the actual fighting during the Rising: Tom Clarke’s rifle. Although there is not much of a record that Clarke fought at all in the rising, one of the few artifacts that I could find was a rifle. To me, the rifle beautifully blurs the line between black and white with regards to the events that took place in 1916. Clarke may have been a planner, but finding the rifle convinced me that he must have taken part in the fighting more than he is given credit for. We have already seen that Clarke did not want to surrender; I think that Clarke was fully prepared to fight as much as he had to in order to get the job done. When the rebels were retreating from the General Post Office, I can imagine that Clarke had his rifle raised along with the other fighters. He was not afraid to spill blood for Ireland, and the last thing he wanted was to experience another British prison. These brave men and women could not afford to have only one role in the Rising; every rebel had to understand the planning and be willing to fight for Irish Independence. Tom Clarke is not excluded. Even though he was the oldest rebel, Clarke understood that he had to fight along with his comrades to bring hope to a hopeless country.

The rifle is a Mauser Model 71, known today as the ‘Howth Rifle.’ Tom Clarke’s rifle has an engraving that reads “Seized Holy Week 1916 from the Magazine Arsenal and used by Tom J. Clarke during the Irish Struggle for Independence at the GPO HQ.” The Howth Rifle was fairly outdated at the time of the Rising; it could only fire about 5 rounds per minute. Even though the Howth Rifle was not a state of the art weapon, it was cheap and effective. The bullets it fired are slightly larger than the Lee Enfield (the common rifle of the British army), and the rifle had huge recoil. Seeing the types of weapons that the rebels had to scrape together stresses the fact that these men and women were mostly common people without much of a chance to actually overthrow their oppressors; however, the rebels understood that they did not have to succeed in their original goals. They simply had to get the ball rolling.

A Piece of History: Countess Markieviecz Sentenced to Penal Servitude

When talking about the Easter Rising, one cannot get far in the conversation without mentioning Countess Markievicz, who is undoubtedly one of the most important players for Irish independence. The countess is widely known as a trailblazer for women, empowering them to take up arms and fight for the country they profess to love. Because of her significant influence among the Irish people, it should come as no surprise that the British government would express concern over how they should deal with this rebel against the empire. In fact, the Kilmainham Jail Museum features an exhibit on the penal servitude records of those convicted by the presiding court. Among the names featured on the record book was Countess Markievicz.

It is interesting to note that when one looks closely at the record book, the Countess was originally sentenced to death for her ideals of Irish independence. Given the tremendous animosity between the Irish and the British, one should not be totally surprised, especially considering that the British executed fourteen leaders of the Easter Rising within the Kilmainham Jail for blaspheming against the empire. However, they just could not know what exactly they should do with Countess Markievicz. Sure, she herself was guilty of sinning against the British authorities, but would they be willing to suffer the enormous backlash that comes from killing a woman? If this was another man, fine. But a woman--just how could they do this? Apparently, as one can glean from closely examing the records shown here, they recanted, and they eventually decided that she should serve her crime by putting her through penal servitude for life. Even then, she still did not serve her full sentence, and she went on to play even more roles in Ireland's arduous journey to independence. Undoubtedly, without her involvement, Ireland's current place would be extremely different compared to today.

 To me, this is another enduring symbol of the ideals the revolutionaries of the Rising fought for. When they and the Irish people had to contend with being the minority segment of the populace, they realized that this should not be given that this was their homeland and that the British laid claims to the land they felt they had no right to have. As a result of their nationalism, they were willing to scratch and claw their way to achieve social prosperity for the Irish people--a mindset that led to most of the leaders paying the ultimate price. Countess Markievicz was among those leaders, and she believed that if the Irish people (especially women) could not break free from their British-imposed shackles, then they would not know what it would be like to be an independent nation. As the casual observer will note from this record book, Countess Markievicz strongly believed in those ideals, and it is no question that it gave her great joy to be one of Ireland's greatest players for independence. Indeed, her deeds should be recorded for history to observe, and preserving such pieces of history as this penal servitude book is a great way to inform future generations.

Here is the exhibit:

Fashion through the Ages: Ireland’s Gold

Can one visit Dublin’s City Centre without noticing [gawking at] the Dubliners’ fashion? Each time I step off the bus, I halfheartedly wonder how uncouth my own jeans, sneakers, and trusty raincoat must appear. Probably no one notices me as I fumble my Leap Card back into its place in my wallet and look around for familiar storefronts. Even so, I am looking at everyone else, or at least noticing their fashion. A well-tailored suit catches my eye as a businessman power-walks by, shouting about someone’s business on his cellphone. An older woman with her cloud white hair swept into a knot steps daintily over the cobblestone street in her bright floral skirt and jacket. Their clothes, their fashion, captures my gaze and prompts me to ponder them, their lives, their personalities, their stories.

           

My interest was similarly piqued by an ancient fashion item. The object is a golden half-moon, a thin almost-ring whose shiny ends bell out with carefully decorated edges. Found in the National Museum of Ireland—Archeology’s gold collection, this object represents a distinct mystery. Where were the specific sources of gold found in ancient Ireland? What was its exact use? When did the people of Ireland become familiar with metalworking? What is the significance of the so-called “hoards” of gold at various sites?

This mysterious object is a “Gold Dress Fastener.” Although there is only one fastener shown in the photograph, the Museum showcases a plethora of gold dress and sleeve Fasteners, all sizes, colored and decorated differently. Some are larger than my hand, while others could fit nicely on my finger. Interestingly, the “Gold Dress Fastener” is not an entirely set-in-stone name. The exhibit in the museum explains that the exact method of fastening is unclear. Probably, the bell-shaped ends fit through grommets to hold the material together, but there are no late Neolithic Irish people around in Dublin to ask for confirmation.

It’s captivating, this mysterious fashion. The fasteners are known to come from the Late Bronze Age because of their solid nature, so people wore these around 900 BC. Massive amounts of gold items have been found in Ireland—these fasteners, earrings, collars, and other jewelry and ornaments—and yet their origins are hazy. Gold has been found in several locations in Ireland, including County Wicklow and County Tyrone; however, experts are unsure of the exact ancient sources.

We “Moderners” may possess these personal items of the ancient Irish, yet we are unclear on the details. Maybe archaeologists will find the answers to their questions at a dig tomorrow. Maybe we will never know. Perhaps a bit of mystery is better. Were these fasteners just as common, say, as our buttons or zippers or raincoat toggles, maybe we wouldn’t find them so interesting. Just as I ponder the details of passing Dubliners, I find that the the beauty and curiosity of the fasteners are inherent in the mystery: Who was the woman who wore these fasteners? Were they her own or did she borrow them from a relative? What did the woman do with her life? Was this set of fasteners made to commemorate a special day, such as a birth, wedding, or funeral? How did this woman and her personal clothes-fasteners influence the vast history that is Pre-Celtic Ireland?  

The next time I catch the eye of a woman wearing a classic yellow raincoat and matching bucket hat, I will notice that the sleeping baby worn on her front is wearing red mary janes and pink and white striped leggings. The next time I see children running down the sidewalk wearing their navy and white school uniforms, I will look to see their delicate ruffled or sturdy athletic socks. I will look past the fashion at each person and wonder what mark they will leave on Irish history—and certainly, what mark they will leave on the world.

Gold Dress Fastener 

Post Mortem Memorabilia: James Joyce's Death Mask

     Let me give a bit of background information before I jump into this post sounding like a crazy woman. The norm of my family is that death is strictly business. While most of you saw the grave stones we visited as beautiful, ornate works of art (and they were, certainly), all I saw were dollar signs. Having a mortician/funeral director in the home will give you funny perspectives like that. Death is a business and all the odd intricacies that goes with it. This all being said, I have a bit of a specialty when it comes to all things death-related and funeral-related: death masks included.
     Prior to the 'modern' era, capturing the visage of the dead was perfectly normal. Post Mortem photography was huge in the Victorian era with loved ones propping their newly deceased up for a quick photo shoot. Death masks (like the one you saw in the Joyce Tower) were also extremely popular. Their popularity goes far beyond photography as Neopoleon Bonaparte had a death mask created after his losing battle with syphilis. What was the purpose of these morbid works of art you ask? As with post mortem photography, death masks were used as momentos for the loved ones of the deceased. Joyce, being so regarded and so famous as he was, would certainly have his face preserved in a wax sculpture for generations to enjoy. These sculptures were also used for scientific study such as in the field of phrenology (the study of the human head in comparison to personality and behavior).
   Seeing such a thing in an otherwise tame museum really struck a chord with me. While I'm an admirer of Joyce and a literature student, the practices of death and funerals have always been fascinating for me despite them being themes of regular dinner table conversation in my household. While morbid, there is a lot both in the past and in the present that is artistic about funerals and how bodies are treated after death. Seeing Joyce's mask was a reminder for me of that fact.

The Celtic cross

          One of the most recognizable symbol in Ireland is the Celtic cross. When Christians arrived on the Celtic island in the 5^th century, they were adamant on spreading their religion but doing it in a way that would not upset the pagan traditions. The sun, seen as a symbol of life, was important to the pagan religion. In order to successfully merge Christianity and paganism, the Christians merged the famous cross with a circle to create the Celtic cross.

           

          Contrary to historical accounts, it is popularly believed that St. Patrick was responsible for the design of the cross. However, historians have found that the Celtic cross predates the birth of St. Patrick. The Celtic cross consists of a four rings and a cross with three arms and a base. There are three types of crosses, however. The first is the Celtic High cross, which refers to ones that are ornamental or ceremonial and are eight hundred years old. The second type date from the 12^th century onward and were used for marking territory; these are your regular Celtic crosses. The final type are the ones that can be seen in many places around the world. These are usually the headstones on people’s graves. This practice did not become popular until the 1860s.

          This cross is an important relic in Irish history because Christianity persists till this day. As our Irish language professor stated, many people may not attend mass but a high percentage of the population will claim to be Christian. The Celtic cross is still an important symbol and can be seen in museums as well as plenty of cemeteries in the country.