Let me give a bit of background information before I jump into this post sounding like a crazy woman. The norm of my family is that death is strictly business. While most of you saw the grave stones we visited as beautiful, ornate works of art (and they were, certainly), all I saw were dollar signs. Having a mortician/funeral director in the home will give you funny perspectives like that. Death is a business and all the odd intricacies that goes with it. This all being said, I have a bit of a specialty when it comes to all things death-related and funeral-related: death masks included.
Prior to the 'modern' era, capturing the visage of the dead was perfectly normal. Post Mortem photography was huge in the Victorian era with loved ones propping their newly deceased up for a quick photo shoot. Death masks (like the one you saw in the Joyce Tower) were also extremely popular. Their popularity goes far beyond photography as Neopoleon Bonaparte had a death mask created after his losing battle with syphilis. What was the purpose of these morbid works of art you ask? As with post mortem photography, death masks were used as momentos for the loved ones of the deceased. Joyce, being so regarded and so famous as he was, would certainly have his face preserved in a wax sculpture for generations to enjoy. These sculptures were also used for scientific study such as in the field of phrenology (the study of the human head in comparison to personality and behavior).
Seeing such a thing in an otherwise tame museum really struck a chord with me. While I'm an admirer of Joyce and a literature student, the practices of death and funerals have always been fascinating for me despite them being themes of regular dinner table conversation in my household. While morbid, there is a lot both in the past and in the present that is artistic about funerals and how bodies are treated after death. Seeing Joyce's mask was a reminder for me of that fact.
Posting short writings from students studying in Ireland during the summer of 2016.
Thursday, June 16, 2016
The
Celtic cross
One of the most recognizable symbol in
Ireland is the Celtic cross. When Christians arrived on the Celtic island in
the 5th century, they were adamant on spreading their religion but
doing it in a way that would not upset the pagan traditions. The sun, seen as a
symbol of life, was important to the pagan religion. In order to successfully
merge Christianity and paganism, the Christians merged the famous cross with a
circle to create the Celtic cross.
Contrary to historical accounts, it is
popularly believed that St. Patrick was responsible for the design of the
cross. However, historians have found that the Celtic cross predates the birth
of St. Patrick. The Celtic cross consists of a four rings and a cross with
three arms and a base. There are three types of crosses, however. The first is
the Celtic High cross, which refers to ones that are ornamental or ceremonial and
are eight hundred years old. The second type date from the 12th
century onward and were used for marking territory; these are your regular Celtic
crosses. The final type are the ones that can be seen in many places around the
world. These are usually the headstones on people’s graves. This practice did
not become popular until the 1860s.
This cross is an important relic in
Irish history because Christianity persists till this day. As our Irish
language professor stated, many people may not attend mass but a high
percentage of the population will claim to be Christian. The Celtic cross is
still an important symbol and can be seen in museums as well as plenty of
cemeteries in the country.
The Road Map of a Culture
“Language is the road map of a culture. It tells you where it's people came from and where they are going.” - Rita Mae Brown
The ability to communicate by sharing thoughts and ideas is crucial to human survival. It is also important in building speech communities of people who share similar beliefs or ways of speaking. That is why the revival of the Irish language is so meaningful. I found it fascinating that there is a special pin, such as the one Paula wore, that conveys information about whether or not the wearer can converse in Irish. Although the pin is a simple object, it has a much deeper meaning.
This simple gold circle is known as An Fáinne, which means “The Ring” or “The Circle.” There are three different types of pins that denote varying degrees of ability, in addition to a badge which shows sympathy to the language but not an ability to speak it
Today the pins are easy to obtain, but originally there was a required test to determine if a person could wear one. The idea for the pins was proposed at a meeting of the Gaelic League in February, 1916, with many of the Easter Rising rebels present. The pins were not very popular at first, because most fluent speakers did not feel the need to advertise it. However, the pins were more successful in the 1920s with nationalists who learned the language as adults, often while imprisoned for fighting with the Irish volunteer army. During the relatively peaceful years these pins faded out of use, but they became more common again in 1965.
So much culture and history is wrapped up in the words and phrases of the Irish language. Just from looking at the language it is easy to see the significance religion has had in Ireland as well as the extreme hospitality and friendliness conveyed by many of the phrases. When the Irish language became more scarce, the country lost more than mere words. Language is a powerful way to shape identity, which is why the movement to bring Irish back into use is so incredible. By requiring schoolchildren to obtain a knowledge of the language, there is a much higher chance that future generations will be fluent in Irish, thereby reclaiming some of the heritage that was lost under British rule.
The Great Irish Wolfhound
The
Irish Wolfhound is one of the oldest breeds of dogs in the world; we have
record of it being around in the 5th century in Ireland but it had already
been an established breed at this point. This massive animal used to be much
larger at the beginning of its existence but, because the larger ones were more
frightening, they were most likely killed in battle. The Irish Wolfhound that we
know today is much different from the ancient hound. Today they are known for their
loyalty, easy-going nature, and size; while the ancient hound was known for its
ruthlessness, loyalty, and ability to take down horses. The original purpose of
taming the Irish Wolfhound was for its use in battle and as a guardian of
homes. There is one story in which two competing kingdoms of Ireland are at
war; one king is riding in the country side in his chariot pulled by two
horses, a wolfhound comes bounding out of the brush and charges the chariot.
She jumps onto the chariot, crushing it, tears the charioteer’s head from his
body and, being unable to find the king because he runs away, kills both the
horses. These dogs were not to be trifled with, they are extremely loyal to
their masters and have an insane amount of power. In the Great War of
1914-1918, Great Britain used Irish Wolfhounds as ambulance dogs, messengers,
and guard dogs. They were used to drag wounded men to safety and their lives
were constantly risked saving hundreds of men. Great Britain used these dogs to
no end and there were many heroes that will go forever unnoticed by the general
population. I think that this could be used as a representation of how Britain
thought of the Irish people. They accepted many Irish men into their military
and used them to keep their own country in line during the Rising, almost
seeming to sacrifice them to their own.
Ancient representation of The Great Irish HoundAt the National Museum of Natural History in Dublin
Modern Irish Wolfhound
Irish Wolfhound vs Great Dane
Object of offering, object of ire
![]() |
| The Yank's offering at Collins' grave. |
A few times a year, an American woman calling herself “The
Yank” visits the Glasnevin Cemetery to deliver a bright red flower, an American
flag and a one-sentence note at the monument to Irish patriot Michael Collins.
Her offerings and pilgrimages to Collins’
grave are noteworthy but not extraordinary because the Irish are
constantly refreshing the plot in which Collins is buried with potted plants and bouquets. Nearly 100 years after Collins was assassinated,
he still commands loyalty and admiration.
A few sections of the cemetery away sits the grave of Eamon de Valera, Collins’ contemporary who became a longtime leader of Ireland.
De Valera’s grave, in contrast, was sparse. No flowers. No
flags. Just gravel and a modest stone cross that was meant, initially, for his
child before it became his grave marker too.
Some of us wondered why it was so understated for someone who spent 10 years as Taoiseach (or prime minister) and 14 years as Ireland’s third president.
My theory is that perhaps de Valera didn’t think he’d ever need a
grave because he was a survivor.
He was the only male leader of the 1916 Easter
Rising to escape execution. I say male because
women played a huge role in the planning and fighting, and seemed at the time to be moving rapidly toward equality.
![]() |
| The Countess Markievicz was a key leader. |
As we have learned,
the Proclamation of the Republic is the first such document in the world to specifically
reference women. It starts: "Irishmen and Irishwomen ..."
And many of the Rising’s commanders, such as labor leader
James Connolly, were feminists. “Win the women to your cause and your cause is
secure,” Connolly famously said.
The British refused to kill the women who
participated in the six-day-long uprising. But the other 14 rebel leaders were shot. (The Brits
didn’t consider the 25-year-old Collins, who was aide de camp to Joseph Mary Plunkett, enough of a threat, so they sent him to a prison camp in Wales.)
De Valera was a political survivor as well. Because he was
the highest-ranking rebel still alive, he filled the power vacuum after the
Rising and heading into the Irish War for Independence in 1919. The Irish
guerrilla tactics proved so effective against the more powerful British, that
the two sides set out to negotiate a treaty in 1921 that would effectively
split Ireland creating a free country across most of the island but leaving six
counties in the north under British rule (or "continued occupation" as our tour
guide at Glasnevin Cemetery put it).
![]() |
| The treaty wasn't popular but did pass. |
Here’s where de Valera showed what kind of political
survivor he was. Instead negotiating a treaty that would inevitably involve concessions, de Valera sent Collins to do it.
And Collins paid the price with his life. The treaty sparked a
civil war, and de Valera gave himself cover by denouncing the treaty’s terms.
Collins, in August 1922, was assassinated in an ambush while leading a patrol in his home county
of Cork.
De Valera would go on to play a key role in undoing much of the gender equality that many of his fellow rebel leaders sought because he allowed the church to essentially set social policy.
![]() |
| The grave of the well-mourned Collins. |
First it was a
slow recession of rights – women, who briefly served as judges during the
“shadow” government before independence, suddenly were excluded from juries and
high-level government jobs, as Dr. Mary McAuliffe, University College of Dublin gender history professor, told our class. As the church and
government blended, “respectability” became the standard
and radical women were “demonized,” McAuliffe said.
Throughout our studies and travels, we've heard repeatedly that the Ireland of the 20th Century likely didn't resemble what the 1916 Rising leaders seemed to envision. And that brings us back to the note that “The Yank” lays at Micheal Collins’ grave. Our tour
guide at Glasnevin said it contains a simple message that piques the
imagination:
“Michael, who knows what might have been.”
Wednesday, June 15, 2016
Dreams Are Found Here
A poets mind is often seen as a confusing place, a misunderstood place, and I believe that is what creates some of the most beautiful work. Being in Ireland and walking where some of the greatest poets in history have walked, I've been enquiring a lot about just how exactly these amazing writers come up with the words to put on the paper.
When we think about a man like William Butler Yeats, we know a lot about his personality from family, friends, and diaries. He was a sensitive man and he felt everything very deeply. One thing he felt most deeply, besides his obsession with Maud, was nature. I got the chance to go to Howth, a small town about an hour away from Dublin. There, I found myself walking on Howth Cliffs, which was easily one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen in my life. However, before we even got to the real hiking on the cliffs, we had to trek up a roadway with many spectacular houses, all with an amazing view of the coastline.
I spotted a house that old boy Yeats lived in from 1880-1883 called the Balscadden House, which is pictured below. The quote, which I learned today was about his forbidden love, Maud, really spoke to me at the time of the hike. It reads "I have spread my dreams under your feet. Tread softly because you tread on my dreams."
Looking at the scenery behind Yeats' old house, some of his poetry made more sense to me. His deeper meanings and love for nature really spoke to me when I got to be up close and personal with some of the sights that influenced his poetry. This 'object' doesn't help me understand the past of Ireland, but it helps me understand one of Irelands greatest poets, who was a big influence when it came to writing about the history of Ireland. It helps me understand the love for Ireland that everyone who fought in the Easter Rising felt so deeply. Seeing the absolute beauty that surrounded Howth Cliffs, I could finally recognize the drive behind the allegiance to Mother Ireland. Everyone who was a part of that revolution had dreams and they are scattered all over present day Ireland. As a foreigner in this wonderful country, I must tread lightly and do my best to see the land as they might have.
When we think about a man like William Butler Yeats, we know a lot about his personality from family, friends, and diaries. He was a sensitive man and he felt everything very deeply. One thing he felt most deeply, besides his obsession with Maud, was nature. I got the chance to go to Howth, a small town about an hour away from Dublin. There, I found myself walking on Howth Cliffs, which was easily one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen in my life. However, before we even got to the real hiking on the cliffs, we had to trek up a roadway with many spectacular houses, all with an amazing view of the coastline.
I spotted a house that old boy Yeats lived in from 1880-1883 called the Balscadden House, which is pictured below. The quote, which I learned today was about his forbidden love, Maud, really spoke to me at the time of the hike. It reads "I have spread my dreams under your feet. Tread softly because you tread on my dreams."
Looking at the scenery behind Yeats' old house, some of his poetry made more sense to me. His deeper meanings and love for nature really spoke to me when I got to be up close and personal with some of the sights that influenced his poetry. This 'object' doesn't help me understand the past of Ireland, but it helps me understand one of Irelands greatest poets, who was a big influence when it came to writing about the history of Ireland. It helps me understand the love for Ireland that everyone who fought in the Easter Rising felt so deeply. Seeing the absolute beauty that surrounded Howth Cliffs, I could finally recognize the drive behind the allegiance to Mother Ireland. Everyone who was a part of that revolution had dreams and they are scattered all over present day Ireland. As a foreigner in this wonderful country, I must tread lightly and do my best to see the land as they might have.
Earthenware Pot Oven: An Artifact of Hospitality
| The table is laid in the James Joyce Tower. |
The pot-oven in the Joyce Tower is about the size of a cantaloupe. It has a lid with a knob handle. It is unglazed clay, and would have been set in the embers of the fire for cooking, but I hadn't figured that out yet.
| See Chapter 1 of Ulysses for a reference to the panther. |
It wasn't until a few days later, when our class read J. M. Synge's play, "Riders to the Sea," that I realized I was looking at a pot-oven: a crock for cooking Irish Soda Bread. Synge sets the scene in his play with ordinary kitchen objects: "Cathleen, a girl of about twenty, finishes kneading cake, and puts it down in the pot-oven by the fire." The pot-oven, and the soda bread baking inside it, are important links to hospitality, an idea that figures prominently in Irish literature. Darina Allen, an Irish celebrity chef tells us that baking bread was, and still is, a daily custom in Ireland. She gives us her recipe, and tells us that it only takes a few minutes to mix, and 20-30 minutes to bake.
In Synge's play, bad stuff happens when you don't tend your pot-oven, and the bread inside it closely enough. In "Riders to the Sea," the women are in charge of the hearth, the pot-oven, and the baking. I don't remember any reference to the pot-oven in Joyce's Ulysses, but seeing it on the table there in that cozy room made me wonder whether Buck Mulligan made the bread himself when he called Kinch and Haines to breakfast.
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